Body Shop Collision Center Palmview

Posted in Auto Body And Repair Shops Texas on June 14, 2019
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It can be frightening when you get stuck in a hail storm but the truly scary part is what it can do to your car. You wouldn't think that little chunks of ice could do much damage to sheet metal. However, many people have been left with a car that looks like a golf ball after a nasty winter storm. Auto Hail Damage Repair has changed a lot over the years and can be done in some cases without the need for a new paint job.For years the standard way to remove dents was by pulling the dent out. You would have to drill holes into the dented area and use a tool to pull the metal back into shape. Then you would have to grind the holes down and use a body filler to smooth them over. After that you would repaint the damaged area and that is one of the biggest drawbacks to this procedure. A paint job that was put on by the manufacturer is of extremely high quality. It is nearly impossible to duplicate it without taking it back to the manufacturer. So you would be left with a section of car that was obviously repainted with inferior materials.Paintless Dent Repair was invented specifically for this reason. The Mercedes-Benz Company in Germany was having a lot of trouble shipping their cars to the various dealers. When they arrived they would have dents and dings but the car lot would not have the resources to give them a manufacturer quality paint job after they were repaired. So they developed a procedure for Paintless Dent Removal that uses rods to push the dent out from the inside while gently tapping the outside with a hammer. It is important that the technician be very skilled using Paintless Dent Repair techniques because if they strike the metal too hard it will split. Sometimes glue is used on the outside of the car to pull the dent instead of pushing with rods which can eliminate the need for using a hammer on the metal. The only times that Paintless Dent Removal is not possible is if the paint was damaged by the initial impact or if the metal has been stretched too far out of shape.Paintless Dent Repair is a great way to save money and retain your original manufacturer paint job. Just make sure that the repair shop that you choose is reputable and has done it many times before. To find a local repair shop you can search the internet for Paintless Dent Repair North Georgia. Palmview

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When weather or bad luck leaves your car in need of professional body repair, car painting, or auto glass replacement, a qualified body shop or car rebuilder will give you straight answers, an honest estimate, and a clear timeframe.

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Car Body Paint Repairs So many people could save themselves a lot of anxiety and future headaches if they would get a used vehicle pre-inspected before they purchased it. Why don't more people do it?Most auto repair facilities are more than happy to provide this service and the cost is usually no more than $80. If you own a large truck or diesel the price may go up to $100. That is a small price to pay to know EXACTLY what you are buying. A vehicle can appear to be nice but have all sorts of mechanical problems with it. You cannot judge a vehicle's heath by what you see on the outside. It takes a skilled mechanic to look under the hood and take things apart to really see what is going on.A friend of mine who lives in Vancouver, WA purchased a 2000 Silverado a couple months ago. He took it on a test drive and it ran good. The body looked great. No noises or anything out of the ordinary was noticed. But months later it turns out the truck needed transmission work, near bearing, its 30K/60K/90K was not done, and he needed a new radiator because the previous owner had failed to get coolant exchanges. The total cost would be close to $2,000. That would have been nice to know BEFORE he bought the vehicle.I have hear horror stories. It was not too long ago that I bought a 1998 Land Rover from a trusted friend that I thought was in excellent shape. A year later things seem to be breaking down every single month. I got the vehicle inspected last week and it turns out none of the scheduled maintenance was done. In order to get my rig back in decent shape I am going to have to spend $2,500. Again, it would have been nice to know that before I paid my friend top dollar for that car. Shame on me. It would have been far less expensive in the long run if I would have taken the vehicle to a local automotive repair shop and paid $100 to get it inspected. Some places run deals for as low as $50 because they want to earn your business. If I would have known the true condition of the vehicle I would have A) not bought the car from my friend or B) dropped the price by the amount of the repairs.People, including myself, put themselves in awkward situations that can be absolutely preventable. Why roll the dice hoping a pre-owned vehicle was taken care of and is in good shape when you have access to automotive professionals who can give you a complete diagnostic report. Do you want to be in the dark or know 100% what condition any car or truck is in.Do yourself a favor and save money in the long run. Get any vehicle, even if you are buying it from a friend, a pre-purchase inspection at a qualified auto repair shop. It will be money well spent.

How To Repair Rust In Your Classic Car Body

Auto Body Work Shop I thought that I'd delve in to an article about fixing rust in the body of your classic car, this is a huge problem if your buying or own a classic cars that came from a place near the sea, or a place where they use salt on the roads to melt the snow, rust in most cases will start underneath the car and work it's way up destroying anything in it's path along the way, nothing will stop rust or slow it down in it's effort to destroy your classic car's body.There are a few ways to fix rust problems in your car, but first you must find them, you can start by looking for bubbles in the painted surface of the car, and do not take it lightly when you find it, don't look at it and think that just because it seems to be only on the surface that it is, rust will hide in cracks, underneath seem sealer, under that carpet, or any place else that it can, believe be the rust knows that you don't want it in your car, so look at it like a doctor would look a cancer.To check how bad the rust is, take a body hammer with a pick on one end, and use that end to lightly tap the rusted spot that you have found, if the metal seems like it's soft and moves easily, then you needs to fix this area now, in some cases you'll knock a hole in the area that your tapping on wit the hammer, don't worry about this, it won't be there for long if you fix the rust hole the right way.What you'll need to do the job, is a, air compressor, a die grinder with a cutting blade on it, do yourself a favor and make sure that you have more then one cussing blade for that grinder, you'll need sheet metal, the same gage as your car, if you don't know what gage it is, you'll also need a 5" air grinder loaded with a 40 grit disc to finish the welds with, then you'll need to buy a metal gage checking tool, and last but not least you'll need a MIG welder with plenty of gas and wire, there are other ways to fix a rust spot without a welder, but in my opinion they are not as reliable.Now that you have your tools all together and your courage up to the right level where you can begin the job, you'll want to determine how big the rusted area is by tapping it with the pick end of that body hammer until you run in to areas on all sides of the rust that don't seem soft, or like they don't have any strength to them, once you have discovered how big the rusted area is you need to get a sharpie and draw a line around the rusted area, about 2" in to the good metal all the way around the rusted area, so you know that the rust will be gone when you cut it out, rust is not easy to weld to, so make 100% sure that it's all the way gone.Now that you have your line to cut to all drawn out with the sharpie, you can plug the die grinder in to the air source, now a word of advise here, don't try to cut it all at one time, put a light cut along the line that you drew with the sharpie, just repeat the process of running the die grinder along that line until the rusted area falls out of the car, now that the rusted metal is out of your car, pick up the rusted piece of metal and lay it on top of your new sheet metal, take that sharpie that you used to draw the first line to cut to, and using the rusted piece of metal draw a line to it with the sharpie, using the same process that you did on the rusted spot in your car, cut the piece of good metal out with the die grinder.The die grinder has left a rough edge on the back of the good piece of metal, you'll need to clean that up, the best way to do this is to take that 5" grinder that you have with the 40 grit disc on it, and lightly run it over the back of the metal until all the burs are gone, now you'll need to that 5" grinder with the 40 grit disc on it, and clean the area on your car where you cut the rust our, make sure that you have about 2" of bare clean metal around the area that you cut out.Now take that good piece of metal that you cut from your sheet of repair metal, and fit it in the hole that you cut out of your car, I usually use visegrips to hold the new metal in place, now this is where things can get a little tricky, so pay close attention this section, make sure that you have a good place to put the grounding clamp for your welder, if you don't see a place for it right close to your work area, then take that 5" air grinder and make one, make sure that the clamp has a solid connection.Plug you welder in, and make sure that the gas is turned on, I usually run the wire feed, and current set at about 3 or 4 on my MIG, but this could be different on your machine, so do yourself a favor and test it before putting it to your car, now that we're all ready to go, you have the visegrips holding the metal in place and you have your welder setup right, your going to want to run about a 1" bead on the top, bottom, and both sides, and then you can get the visegrips out of your way.Now you have four weld beads holding the patch panel in place, now here's a bit more advise, mig welders get very hot, and it's possible to warp the metal in your car while welding the patch panel in place, so never weld more then 1" beads at a time, and move from the top to the bottom, do a 1" weld on the top of the patch, and then cool it off with a little air, and the do a 1" weld on the bottom and cool it off, and the do the same thing with the sides, until you have one solid bead all the way around the patch panel, you have now fixed your rust problem, all that's left is the finish work on the welds.Grab your 5" air grinder with the 40 grit disc and grind the welds flat, in most cases you should not even be able to see the welds if you have done it right, the job is now complete, I'll move on to the body work part in a later article. Best Collision Center

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